Sekkoya, Canterbury, Kent: ‘A prime example of why the term “pan-Asian” fills me with such foreboding’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

This is the sort of food invented for British people that you’d have got at a Cantonese restaurant back in 1994Off to Canterbury for a shufti around the cathedral, a meander through its pretty streets and a spot of lunch at Sekkoya, a vast, gorgeous-looking new pan-Asian restaurant on the Riverside next to an Everyman Cinema, a crazy golf venue and a branch of Heavenly Desserts. The restaurant’s sleek website offers all sorts of bold statements about this hot dining experience (regul