In the right hands, there’s diversity and much to love about grüner veltliner, the signature Austrian white grape, and other local dropsFunkstille Grüner Veltliner, Niederösterreich, Austria 2023(from £12.49, Hay Wines) It’s taken a while, but it does seem as if Austrian wine, a long-neglected part of the classical European vinous repertoire, is finally getting something like its due attention in British wine shops and supermarkets. The country’s wines have