Oma, London SE1: ‘Very difficult to resist’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

Who’d have thought that a nerdish but relaxed space age taverna would turn out to be one of the openings of the year?Oma in Borough Market is Greek, but not as you may know it. If you don’t know your “wildfarmed laffa” from your spanakopita gratin with malawach, or your giouvetsi beef-fat pangrattato from your mussel saganaki with tsalafouti, then this will be, literally, all Greek to you. At Oma, the server’s “Do you want any help with the menu?” is gre