Katherine Cole: ‘The surest way to ensure wine’s demise is to politicise it’

While wine’s reputation suffers from its new status as a carcinogen, oligarchs presiding over the Second American Gilded Age engage in hyperbaric therapy, light therapy and cryotherapy. They take longevity drugs, pop supplements, swap out their blood plasma and follow strict diet and exercise regimens.
In this milieu, wine appreciation feels positively transgressive. Why not kick it while it’s down?
The surest way to ensure wine’s demise is to politicise it. And this is already