Alpine adventures: fairytale hiking in the hidden French Alps

Little known Queyras nature park promises blue-green lakes, mountain views, pretty villages and plenty of cheese – but almost no crowdsThe baguette was fresh from the boulangerie that morning, a perfect fusion of airy lightness and crackled crust. The cheese – a nutty, golden gruyère – we’d bought from Pierre: we hadn’t expected to hike past a human, let alone a fromagerie, in the teeny hillside hamlet of Rouet, and it had taken a while to rouse the cheesemak