48 hours in Cologne, Germany’s most laid-back city

Cologne cathedral, Europe’s biggest collection of pop art and vintage shops are all less than four and a half hours from London by trainIt’s on about our fifth Kölsch that we begin to get the idea of Cologne’s constitution. We are sitting in Päffgen, one of the traditional brewhouses that produce the pale yellow beer unique to the German city. It comes in small straight glasses (it loses its fizz quickly apparently) and each time one is emptied, another one is deliver