Grate expectations: cheese toasties are having a moment, and I’m all for it | Lauren O'Neill

The comfort-food staple has been given a culinary glow-up and is suddenly the toast of the town. What’s not to like?A dispatch from the menus of the capital’s fancier pubs, Instagram restaurants and wine bars: there’s a new favourite dish in town. Though maybe “new” is the wrong word. Cropping up in the types of establishments where you’ll easily pay a fiver for olives is the humble but universally beloved cheese toastie.I’d call it a renaissance, but th