Tatar Bunar, London E2: ‘No faff, no lectures. Just dinner, and lots of it’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

Had enough of small plates that send you home hungry? This glam new Ukrainian spot serves big portions of filling carbsTatar Bunar, a new Ukrainian restaurant in Shoreditch, east London, is styled as quaintly and charmingly rustic: wooden-fronted, with sage curtains, glass-panelled doors and stacks of higgledy-piggledy plates artfully arranged on shelves. Then there’s the food: sprats, potato latkes, varenyky, borscht and an abundance of wild mushrooms, and all of it influenced by chef Ale