Country diary: I inhaled a whiff of wolf urine – it was the true essence of wilderness | Mark Cocker

Białowieża Forest, Poland: This is a vast and overwhelming place, a glimpse into a world as it was before we came alongThis place, which straddles two eastern European countries, has a reputation as the continent’s last primeval forest – a glimpse of a world before it was smothered in ourselves and the homolith. To arrive at night is to tunnel through trees for mile after mile without end. And this, you realise, represents a fraction of the whole. Because beyond the border